New Mexico
I've been back for two days. I woke up this morning trying to remember where i was standing precisely four days ago....five days ago...what i did sunday night....I think I'm trying to hold on.
Apparently the day i left Boston everything went to hell in a handbag with my friends. We have love triangles, hate quadrangles, and friend-cestuous dodecahedrons happening. I landed two days ago and found myself in an utter fray. And one case happens to hit especially close to home, but i'd rather be tactful about it, and for some reason it doesn't seem to hurt as much as it ought. I think i have spent most of my time trying to unravel what the hell is happening and listening to everyone bemoan one another. Good thing I'm blissful, anyway. I feel like the only person around with my head on straight, thanks to a fresh dose of clear desert air.
Unfortunately this means i don't really get to dish about where I've been and what happened when i was there, which was something really important to me. I feel....different. Maybe that's why all these little disasters aren't wearing me down. I feel like i have a deep intention. I don't feel lost anymore. I know where i want to be.
So, this is where I was. I'm not telling you about it because i need you to read it, but so that it's at least here somewhere, so I can remember.
Wednesday, August 13; departure.
We woke early in the morning, rubbed the sleep from our eyes, and dragged our stuff to the airport. I was a little nervous about the airport falderal since it was my first time flying....not the actual being-in-the-air part, but all the mess at the gate. I knew i would have to do it all on my own in a week, and i didn't want to get lost. I had chocolate milk in the terminal, played with my phone, and made faces at Bry. We watched the planes roll in and out, and i marveled at how those Fat-Ass behemoths could get off the ground.
But sure enough we did.

Original Vintage art by Bryon himself.
It was incredible. Part of me wanted to touch the clouds as they swept by, and at the same time i wanted to turn to him and tell him all that it meant to be out in the open air, with the world sprawled out before me. I watched the whole continent pass beneath me, and wondered at the pattens of weather and the geology rolling along below, the patterns of human construction, the colors of the earth as the forests dispersed into tawny fields and tamed prairie. I pointed out little boats in the water and the ice crystal rainbows hanging in the clouds, because it is important to see even little miracles like that. And then there were blue mountains poking through the cloud field, and openings into bare earth and arroyos which cut into the plain like arteries, and wisps of green where aquifers lay hidden under the sand. And then we landed.
I think it was a dream...how else could i have been picked up in one place and plunked down into the foot of a mountain, and see that long-lost landscape all around me? I woke there, feeling miraculous and disoriented.
His mom drove us across the plain to Santa Fe, where i met his sister and her husband and the two boys, age four and two. It was love at first sight. I drew giraffes and bunnies at the table and we squabbled over crayons and chocolate cake, pretended to be dinosaurs and played hide and seek, and wrestled on the floor. Uncle Bryon and I promised to take them to play sometime soon. And then it was night, and time for bed, and sleep.
Thursday August 14.
I woke at dawn with an urge to see the sunrise. I had this idea about sitting in the dust at eye level with the sagebrush, and seeing the sky turn light over the mountain. I wanted to dig my toes into the dirt, and bind myself to the ground.
I think we had breakfast at Tecolote, which means "the Owl". I don't know what owls have to do with pancakes, but I was hungry, so i had waffles with apricots on them. Yum.
We went to the plaza and poked around. I learned to say "Sannafay" rather than my clipped yankee "San-TAH Fay." There was a lot of art that would match your couch, especially if you live in a contrived adobe house and have too much money. We saw some of those people. We made fun of them.
Dinner was pizza at one of his mom's favs, we chatted, and i picked out the resemblances between them. Green eyes, light brown hair, straightforward, and tenaciously fierce when it comes to important things.
That was my first day.
Friday August 15.
As promised, we took the boys to this place called Quigley's, which Christopher (age 4) affectionately refers to as "we go play at the toys, now, ya?" He dragged Uncle Bryon around to all the games for a good hour, burning through tokens like there was no tomorrow. We became basketball masters. We whacked the moles. We hucked purple plastic balls at one another. We ran in and out of the plastic tunnel. I chased Nickel, the two year old, around for a bit, scooped him up and spun him around intermittently, and chatted with Christopher about important universal issues. Like whether he was deserving of a toy at Target. On a philosophical level I think we all are pretty deserving anyway, but a four year old can give a very convincing argument when only left with "maybe". We baited him with the possibility of something good after lunch.
Apparently out west they have these cafeteria-things, where lots of hungry people line up at a counter with a tray, just like we all did at school, and eat all they can for $6.95. Christopher had macaroni and cheese and lime green jell-o. So did Nickel, plus some of mine and whatever he wanted off of Bryon's tray, including most of his chocolate creme oreo pie. At one point I was spoonfeeding the little eating machine (airplane-style), cheese and whipped cream and mashed potatoes up to my elbows, and I looked across the table at Bry. I think I realized something.....it felt oddly right. I was having fun.
After lunch we dropped them at home, promising to reveal the aforementioned treat if they took a nap, which was a grand struggle involving alot of rollicking around the house and furious protestations from all sides.
Bry and I finally escaped for the afternoon and went for a meander in the mountains. Ascending the back road out of Sannafay, we wound our way up through red granite hills and through aspen woods, up to the top. It was clear and beautiful, with the plain laid out shimmering in front of us, and crisp green shade all around. We trekked up the ski hill, poking at rocks along the way and pigging out on trail mix, when we discovered a pair of gynormous steel cisterns plunked in the woods. We dared each other to climb the ladder, but it turns out we're both wusses. So we stopped by a little meadow with a stream trickling through it and rested and contemplated the grass. I realized I didn't recognize most of the plants around me, which is strange since in my own eastern woods i can name all sorts of green things, and the properties of some of the more useful ones. But i was in a strange land. Oddly, though, I felt like i ought to be there.
I fell asleep that night, well-fed on homecooked dijon-apricot baked chicken, thinking about plants and where my home is.
Saturday August 16.
Bryon woke up first, nudged me, and asked what I wanted to do for the day. I suppose there is something exceptional about Saturdays in which anything seems possible. We decided radiotelescopes were very possible.
We drove south through Albequerque, into the empty lands beyond the city. I couldn't believe how open and lovely the landscape was....so entirely beyond human scale. I imagined myself walking down the long straight endless stretches, and wondered how long it would take me to reach the mountains.
Bryon says that when he lived there, he remembers watching the moon rise over the mountain. It sounded poignant, but simple. I felt like i knew a moment like that, too, and I very possibly was seeing and feeling things right then that would be locked in my memory like a moonrise over the open plain. Except now I was in love with hills, and cloud shadows.

We reached the Very Large Array, in the middle of nowhere, locked in a belt of brief sunshine. Three thunderstorms were coasting in on our valley, dragging sheets of rain along beneath them. We lingered inside for a bit and made fun of the informative video presentation they had in the visitors center (lemme just say, astronomers dorking it out in plaid flannel, whoooeee) then trekked out to the nearest dish. Then the rain came, and we scampered back to the car and came home.
Sunday, August 17.
Outside of Albequerque there are some big blue mountains called the Sandias, and a whole bunch of interesting rigamarole up top. We got up at a leisurely hour, an meandered down to the foot of the slope, and hopped on the tram to the top. It's pretty funny being cooped up in a little suspended box with a bunch of tourons (tourists + morons) while hanging hundreds of feet above the rocks. Silly people. I was having fun imagining myself being dashed against those boulders far below, like a little perversion to my bliss. Bryon tucked his arm around my waist while we peered down below and out over the valley, and it felt marvelous to be near him in the middle of such a huge landscape, feeling so small.
At the top we poked around on the observation deck, enjoying the cool air and warm sun. The mountains had always seemed to be an eastern wall against the back of the city, and we found a nev view beyond them. According to the map we knew where the place was, but when you live at the foot of the sandias you spend most of your time tracking up and down along their edges in the valley, and rarely cross beyond. This revelation made us hungry, so we hid out in the lodge for a while and had some lunch and discussed our adventures. Later on we found a nice rock to sit on over a cut in the mountains, and i took a picture of my feet and the world beyond to send to Kerri.
After we descended the slope we decided to poke around Albequerque and see if we could find any rock shops, but those sorts of things are elusive, so we went home to sannafay. I had a nap, and then steak for dinner later that night. Moo.
Monday August 18.
Taos. It was a dream. I was there. And you could buy any number of crappy touristy concho-laden feather encrusted puffy-painted doodads to remember that dream. There were coffee-purveying cowgirls in hoop earrings and SUV's on Kit Carson Road and a walmart just outside of town, next to the dilapidated auto parts store....it was so different from what I remember. It might have broken my heart to see it like that, but there was something there that was still the same, as the post rainstorm sunlight gleamed on the roofs of the plaza, and i could feel the mountain behind me and the rolling desert out beyond the walls and fields. There was some art that didn't belong there. There was a fountain under a cottonwood tree. There were turquoise painted vegas and lopsided adobe walls, and crooked flagstones at the foot of some steps, an arch leading to a walkway, flowers at tables, grass by the side of the curb.
After so much waiting and longing and memory, it was really Taos.
there is more.
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